Montelbaanstoren - The ancient watchtower over the Lastage
When you have the opportunity to look at Amsterdam from a higher vantage point, like a rooftop, you will notice lots of towers stretching their long "necks" in the air. One of these "toren", which means "tower" in Dutch, dominates the landscape in the Northeast, around the Oosterdok, the historic Montelbaanstoren. Not to be confused with the Zuiderkerk tower, not far from the Nieuwmarkt, which can also be seen from an elevated point at the Oosterdok.
Built in 1516 at the corner of the Waalseilandgracht and the Oudeschans (also known as Montelbaansgracht), it was forming part of the effort to protect the city from attacks. The excavated earth of the newly created canals was used in the construction of ramparts, therefore the name "Oudeschans", which means "old entrenchment".
In this system, the Montelbaanstoren served as a watchtower over the port facilities at the Lastage, an important strategic and commercial district in the 16th century. As it was lying outside the city walls at that time, defense lines were crucial. During the "Gelderse oorlogen" (Guelders wars) in the 16th century, the area had been ravaged several times by fires.
The Montelbaanstoren, past and present, with the Oosterdok in the background.
According to a tale, the strange name of the tower comes from the Spanish Duke of Alba, who had the intention to build a castle near the tower. He wanted to give it the name "Monte Albano", but the project was never realised. But this story is far from being proven. On historical prints different names like "Monte-Albaens-tooren", "Monkelbaenstoren", or "Montalbaanstoren" were used, until it finally became Montelbaanstoren.
From 1606 on, the tower lost its strategic importance and a brick layer with a wooden spire, containing a clock, was added, raising it to a height of 48 meters. Well, that's according to some sources. Either it has shrunk meanwhile, or the information is incorrect. I estimate it's less than half that height nowadays. I'm also pretty sure, that you can't see as far as the Zuiderzee from the top, as some sources claim. Although you probably could in the old days.
Because of problems with the accuracy and the striking mechanism of the clockwork, people started to name it "Malle Jaap" (Stupid Jaap). Over the last centuries a series of renovations in the interior, as well as the exterior, was carried out. From 1878 to 2006 it was used by the water management authority and therefore closed for the public. Since 2010, the “Stichting Secret Garden”, an LGTB+ organisation had established their headquarters in the tower. A private boat tour starts right by the canal at the base of the tower.
Schreierstoren - The 2nd oldest building in Amsterdam, part of the ancient fortifications
The tower, named Schreierstoren, stands at a location where the IJ once formed a small promontory in the northeastern part of the city. At that time, around 1487, the watercourse of the IJ was still closer to the city than today. The name "Schreierstoren", doesn't derive from "weeping", as the word "schreien" in Dutch would suggest. It is the only preserved defense tower in Amsterdam. Further fortifications should follow, after the city council voted for more expansions.
The city wall in the North ran along the harbour and the actual Prins Hendrikkade, across what is now the station square. At the Schreierstoren it turned southwest, where it continued along, what was then the Stedegracht (today's Geldersekade), to the Sint Antoniespoort, the actual Nieuwmarkt. Remains of the masonry can still be seen in the embankment wall along the Geldersekade in the form of large sandstone blocks.
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After the tower lost its function as a defense structure, it served as the harbour master's office for some time. After restoration in 1966, a café is located in the striking building, made of red bricks. Some sources indicate that a shop, selling books and maps is located on the top floor, but I can't confirm that.
Amsterdam around 1500, Map by J.H. Werkman
The Schreierstoren, dwarfed in front of the Sint Nicolaaskerk
Scheepvaart Museum - The National Maritime Museum
In 1650 it was decided to build a naval dockyard on Kattenburg, the westernmost of the three reclaimed islands in the Oosterdok. In 1655 construction began on a naval warehouse, the 's Lands Zeemagazijn, at the southern end of the site. It was mainly used to store cannons, ropes and gunpowder. The building had become necessary after the Dutch had lost the first Anglo-Dutch War and the navy urgently needed to be professionalized to protect the merchant fleet. The foundation of the imposing Admiraliteits Magazijn, as it was also called, consisted of 2300 wooden piles, the building itself was made entirely of brick.
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At the beginning of the 18th century the Admiralty noticed that the arsenal was slowly sinking into the ground, a common problem with construction projects in Amsterdam. Some construction errors when laying the foundation stone, as well as the weight of the building and the peat soil of Amsterdam, led to a dangerous situation. To prevent further subsidence, buttresses were added to the base of the building and a porch was built on four sides of the building.
Illustration of the fire at the arsenal in 1791
In 1791, a large fire broke out and charred the entire building. Instead of demolishing it and building a new arsenal in its place, it was decided to plaster the building to imitate sandstone, creating the characteristic white appearance it has today.
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After the French invasion in 1795, the Dutch Admiralty was dissolved and a national navy was formed. The function of the arsenal also changed, now clothing and food were stored there. After the French withdrew, the building was handed over to the newly established Dutch Navy and remained under its control until 1973. In the same year, the Scheepvaartmuseum moved into the more than 300-year-old building.
The Scheepvaartmuseum or 's Lands Zeemazijn - past and present
The National Maritime Museum (Het Scheepvaartmuseum) is dedicated to the maritime history of the Netherlands and contains many artefacts related to shipping and sailing. The collection includes paintings, sea and world maps, scale models and weapons. The paintings show famous Dutch naval officers such as Michiel de Ruyter and historical naval battles.
The museum's map collection includes works by the famous 17th century cartographer Willem Blaeu and his son Joan Blaeu. The museum also has a preserved copy of the first edition of Maximilianus Transylvanus' work "De Moluccis Insulis", which was the first to describe Ferdinand Magellan's voyage around the world. The museum has over 400,000 visitors at peak times and was at one point the 11th most visited museum in the Netherlands.
In front of the museum lies a replica of an 18th century ship, the "Amsterdam", which travelled between the Netherlands and the East Indies for the VOC, the Dutch East India company. The original vessel couldn't even celebrate its one year of existence, as it sank in the English channel in 1749. A visit onboard gives an impression how life must have been on a cargo ship, which could transport up to 300 men.
The Scheepvaarthuis
The iconic building at the South end of the Oosterdok
The Scheepvaarthuis (shipping house) with the Kraansluis Bridge in the foreground - about 1920
The construction of the Scheepvaarthuis, at today's Prins Hendrikkade on the south side of the Oosterdok, was started in 1913 on behalf of 6 shipping companies. In order to make space for the huge building on an area of almost 1.5 acres, a total of 13 houses had to be demolished. The entire complex was built in the style of the Amsterdam School, an architectural movement of classical modernism. A large number of artists were involved in the execution of the numerous decorations, both outside and inside the building. The main entrance on the corner of Prins Hendrikkade and Binnenkant is crowned by a spire covered in shimmering bluish slate. The lead roof edge is shaped like ship ropes, waves and fish heads.
The actual Scheepvaarthuis on the Prins Hendrikkade, as seen from the Oosterdokseiland
After the shipping companies withdrew, the building went to the municipality, whereupon in 1983 it became the headquarters of the Municipal Transport Company (GVB). Finally, after another sale and subsequent extensive renovation, it was opened as the luxurious Grand Hotel Amrâth in 2007. In collaboration with experts and artists, as well as the Office for Monuments and Archeology, both the facade and the lavish interior were redesigned. It was inspired by the luxurious Art Nouveau style. The eye-catching building is understandably protected as a national cultural monument.
Post CS Gebouw
The former post building on the Oosterdokseiland
The Post CS Gebouw on the Oosterdokseiland 1987 with the entry to the Ij-tunnel in the foreground
The Post CS Gebouw 2003 with the central train station in the background
and the Oosterdoksdoorgang passage to the IJ on the right side
The Post CS building, sometimes called the Stationspostgebouw, was officially opened on the Oosterdokseiland in 1968. The building was about 50 meters high and replaced, among other things, the old parcel post building from 1922, which could no longer cope with the increased volume of mail. At the beginning of the 21st century, a large part of the huge complex was demolished to make room for new buildings as part of the development of the Oosterdokseiland. After the PTT disposed of part of the building in 2004, the still existing high building was used for cultural events. For four and a half years, until the end of 2008, even the well-known Stedelijk Museum had a branch in a remaining part of the building complex. The last part of the building was demolished in 2009.